Cultural forests part II: Praying for big trees in the Philippines

Okay, time to explain the name behind this blog. I'm a forest guy. I research forests and I love to photograph big trees. The bigger, older and the more gnarly, the better! However, most splendid forest scenes cannot be captured adequately within a regular camera lens frame so on this trip I’ve packed a Canon 10-18mm lens to capture what I am after. On previous trips I’ve brought a 17mm, once hauling it and a full-size tripod by bicycle 11,000 km to Panama on a big tree mission, but that is whole other story.

In the beginning of this trip, I scantily saw any impressive forest. The Philippines as I found out is seriously deforested with only 3% of the country’s primary forests remaining. Its an ideal place to see scraggly degraded forest, but not so much big trees. I was quite disappointed. The big tree lover I am, I resorted to praying for big trees.

The Philippines is a strongly catholic nation so to fit in I went to a place to pray. I went to see the incredible old cathedrals located in most main towns. And holy moly... my prayers were answered!

Main cathedral in Cebu City packed for mass one stormy morning in February, 2017. 

By these grand cathedrals, I found giant old large trees planted out front. In the village of Ronda, a small coastal community just a short excursion from the paradise snorkelling destination of Moalboal (fyi, which we loved) we found the biggest tree yet. It’s big gnarled trunk was somehow reminiscent of an elephant. I actually spotted it from far away from our speeding bus, and then we returned with a rented scooter the next day for a closer look. The giant was an estimated 2 m in diameter trunk and about 26m tall with an impressively wide umbrella crown. The locals mingling  under its shade told me it was an acacia. (I couldn’t tell you otherwise;  my tree knowledge is terrible so far on this trip). Whatever it was, it was by far the largest tree I saw in the Philippines.  

The biggest tree we found in the Philippines! In front of the cathedral in Ronda, Cebu. 

Side note, Moalboal was probably our favourite destination in the Philippines. The beach-access snorkelling brought us head to head with major schools of sardines as well as leatherback sea turtles and sea snakes. Nearby, Kawasan Falls and other hidden little beaches were fantastic treasures to discover too.

Moalboal, the Philippines. 

Flora cooling off in Kawasan Falls, near Moalboal, the Philippines

I also found nice some trees out front of other churches in the colourful fishing village of Ubay on Bohol Island (below).

Ubay, the Philippines

Meanwhile, this stunning old-cathedral in Lomboc, Bohol Island, was damaged by an earthquake in 2013. At the rate that the surrounding tropical vegetation is encroaching, it could become an old-growth forest itself within a century...

Okay, the most interesting shot from Lomboc cathedral happens to be this one... 

In many regions around the world, you will find large trees located near churches. For example, some of the oldest trees in the world are outside churches in the UK, such as the >3,000 year old Fortingall Yew. The tree with the largest trunk diameter on earth towers, stupendously, over a small church in Oaxaca, Mexico. The giant tree called ‘El Tule,’ which by the time I visited it had already witnessed the rise and fall of major ancient civilizations in the region makes El Nino look small. When I was cycling through Mexico on another trip a local informed me of an ancient tamarindo tree with a heavy brass bell hanging from an old crooked branch to mark it as a place of worship. The local villagers there told me that it was planted 500 years ago; it would then have begun to grow around when Europeans arrived to North America.

Ancient tamarindo tree in Jalisco, Mexico.  Can you spot the huge bell hanging from its branch!?

Through my travels and research I've gained some ideas to explain the role of large trees in people's culture and spiritual beliefs. For starters, some species have a more important role than others. To some indigenous people, particular tree species have particular traditional uses, which results in the tree becoming greatly important to their culture. For example, the First Nations of western north america carved totem poles and great canoes from the wide trunks of western red-cedar. They used cedar bark for basketry and cedar foliage for spiritual cleansing. Their cultural appreciation has built over millenia of use into it becoming woven deeply into their way of life.

Ancient redcedar tree along the Oregon Coast. Photo from Instagram @vanbigtrees

Other times, the tree goes well beyond uses. To the Mayans, the kapok (Ceiba pentandra) tree bears enormous spiritual significance because the Mayans history and ontology places the tree at a central point in their understanding of the origins of life and belief in the afterlife. Cultural connections to large and old trees is often expressed through local laws against harming the trees and strong repercussions against violators.

Not a particularly nice looking Kapok, but one the locals seemed to regard highly in Belize. Photo from bike touring Central America

When traveling you will often find large and old trees embedded in the spiritual and physical landscape of local peoples. You'll find both trees planted at community meeting and worship sites, and cultural sites that have sprung up beside the ancient trees. Regardless, of which came first, these trees are often used for community gatherings under their beautiful shade. Enduring social relations form under the trees and carry forward in some way over generations. As in many of my other big tree experiences, I was happy to exchange smiles and enthusiasm with curious locals who always seem happy to see a westerner find simple joy in their beloved old tree.

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Cultural forests part I: Celebrating man made forests of Bohol, the Philippines

Non-native mahogany trees forms the Manmade forest of Bohol, the Philippines

In most tropical countries, you can discover dazzling rainforests home to monkeys, colourful bird life, and legions of unseen howling insects. But while In the Philippines, finding wild natural forests proved challenging for us. Across the archipelago nation, only about 3%of primary forests now remain and the forest cover that is left (about 15% ofthe country) is secondary forests, which include degraded forests, young forests from slash and burn (i.e. ‘swidden’) agriculture, and timber plantations. These types of forests, which have been shaped by human culture, economy and historical activities, are increasingly common worldwide.

While these forests are not pristine, they are anthropologically very interesting, and many researchers examine them as ‘cultural forests.’ You could learn something about any forest type you know by examining the role of human culture and enterprise in shaping it. There are groves around my hometown of Vancouver, BC, touched long ago by aboriginal forestry or recovering from industrial logging. The famous Black Forest of Germany is heavily shaped by historical forest use. Author Charles Mann in his book 1491, reveals that even remote swaths of the Amazon were once cultivated for fruit trees by indigenous people millennia ago, shaping the forests seen today.

The extensiveness of our meddling with forests seems rather disappointing at first, but there are lessons to glean from accepting this reality. In many forests, past human activity may better explain the height, species, and age of trees than the depth and type of soil that the trees grow on. For example, a recent study from Taiwanese forests convincingly showed that we can better map and classify forest types by factoring in past human uses. Academics increasingly reject the notion that man must be viewed as separate from nature. Even conservation organizations are moving away from the ‘fortress nature’ strategy to conserve nature (where people are kept out). The question of what this reality meant for how we perceive our relationship with forests was on my mind as I traveled overland towards the so-called ‘Manmade forest,’ of Bohol Island, the Philippines.

Lomboc River, Bohol, seen on route to the Manmade Forest

The main question on my mind as a I pinned the throttle to round a sharp corner on our rented scooter was how has the so-called 'Manmade forests' at Bohol, the Philippines, become a well-known attraction? "Visit the Manmade forest - one of man’s great creations!!” was the sentiment I read.

The Manmade Forest of Bohol is truly no more than a timber plantation, an area planted with trees to procure wood and wood products. So it seemed odd based on my forest ecology background that a timber plantation was perceived so positively in a country now lacking natural forest, and that is has emerged as a popular tourist destination.

Rice terraces along the way to the Manmade Forest, Bohol, the Philippines. 

Let me explain my suspicion by first stressing that not all forests are created equally. Humans plant, engineer, and tend forests on a massive scale, mostly in the form of timber plantations. Incredibly, these altered forests, according to United Nations FAO statistics, now spread across 67% of the world's forests. Relatively few primary or old growth forests remain, which is very troubling for the critters that depend on them - 50% of terrestrial biodiversity is in forests. It’s also concerning for people, which cherish these places for their intrinsic and spiritual values.

Degradation of forests is a serious global problem. Extending into some of the world's deepest wildernesses is a plague of forest destruction - the cutting of natural forests and converting them to timber plantations - which homogenizes the world’s forests into cornfield-like plantations composed of a few species of tree. Most timber plantations have trees all the same age and size planted row by row. They lack big trees, verdant understories, and one patch of trees is practically identical to the next.

Successful forest plantation of Douglas-fir in BC, Canada

To be cynical, I’ll add that the term 'Manmade forests' might seem a bit arrogant, doesn’t it? After all, nature does most of the work. After planting the seed, the forest largely organizes itself under the energizing power of the sun (thanks to photosynthesis) and with the help of other natural growth processes such as decomposition, nutrient cycling, and gas exchange the trees grow into a forest. But, contrary to these ideals, we must face that growing a forest is hard work and many things can interfere with our best intentions. Major challenges for reforestation in the Philippines have been a lack of vigorous and appropriate genetic seedling stock, prescriptions for how to space the trees, and resources to tend weeds, fertilize, and manage pests to ensure the seedlings can establish. In these cases a less impressive forest or no forest at all will result, which has major implications for a developing country that needs wood for building and heating, and other forest products important to their economy and culture.

Another example of a very old timber plantation. This one at FRIM near Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 

Planted timber plantations are extremely good at one thing in particular: producing lots of wood or other desired forest products. Forests are cultivated in the tropics to provide a range of renewable resources, including rubber, wood, fruits and nuts, coffee, and fiber products. While some secondary forests in the tropics are massive industrial plantations that are truly detrimental to biodiversity, others are small locally-owned patches among a broader ecological landscape and these are critical to people’s livelihoods. The Philippines is desperate for effective reforestation. While forest products once supported 12% of GDP in the Philippines (at its peak in the 1970s) the harvest of forests was so unsustainable for a few decades that forests became so depleted that timber exports are now banned as the country relies on imports to meet their domestic timber needs.

A plantation of Nipa palm (Nypa fruticans), which provides a useful fiber, food, and is used in an alcoholic beverage 

Sometimes secondary forests are very nice, cool places to visit, too. Admittedly, the Manmade forest is an aesthetically pleasing and interesting grove to visit as it stands out from the rest of the forests around it. The forest is mahogany, a valuable timber species imported from South America. The Manmade forest is old and uniformly tall. The 60-year old trees are mature and tall enough to form a prominent arch over the roadway, as one source states, like “sentinels guarding the road.” This forest has been ready for harvest probably for more than a decade, but I doubt they will cut it down now since it’s become an iconic tourist attraction. It’s worth far more left standing.

A secondary forest heavily infused with coconut trees. Moalboal, Cebu, the Philippines 

The man-made forest of Bohol now supports a major eco-adventure park and is a primary tourist attraction on the island. It somehow drew us in. I must applaud the promoters here because they have seen this forests for much more than just the timber in its trees. To get to the Manmade forest, we rented a motorbike in Taglibbaran City for $15. As we navigated the steep mountainous terrain, turn by turn, we entered its fresh shade through the open air. A major reason to visit this forests is its location along the road towards a striking limestone formation known as the Chocolate Hills. 

The Chocolate Hills of Bohol, the Philippines

Other examples of planted forest with high cultural value include those in botanical gardens, arboretums, city parks, and even old streets trees planted long ago along an old country road.

I think there is a rather pragmatic lesson I gained in my reflections on Bohol's Manmade forest. While the ongoing cutting of earth's increasingly rare old-growth forests is deplorable in most cases in an ever changing world we must also look to our recovering forests in earnest and be creative and in how we can adapt and build cultural appreciation around them.

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The thrifty joy of public transport

One of the fundamental joys of travel derives from the simple act of moving forward, by whatever means, towards the great unknown. In honour of this most basic travel element, which brings me wonder, curiosity and a sense of awareness while entering new lands, I dedicate the first post of my new blog to the thrifty joy of public transit in the Philippines, and the revelations it brings.

If it works for you as it did for us, you'll jump on to public transit to find a memorable travel experience alongside locals who are incredible friendly and curious. Traveling with the locals is an immersive experience. It’s your chance to meet people and observe diversity and customs within the local people. In the Philippines, most people do not own cars and instead use public transport, so you'll see everyone including: young families, old friends, farmers with their rooster, peanut roasters -- the whole world comes together on public transit!

Furthermore, public transit is a sure way to save a few bucks as a ride in public transit can be a small fraction of the cost of guided tours, tourist buses, and local flights. I write this blog partly with the goal to encourage travelers to pursue genuine experiences on public transport. I know it seems a little crazy but don’t be afraid to step a little out of their comfort zone as in most cases you’ll quickly adapt and then can sit back and enjoy the ride.

A few typical travel modes while in the Philippines:

You are not in the Philippines until you’ve ridden a jeepney!
The jeepney, a vehicle transport originating after WWII from the refurbishment of US military jeeps left behind in the Philippines, is a mode of transport unique to the Philippines. During postwar recovery from 3 years of Japanese occupation, the US military jeeps were adapted opportunistically by cutting them in half, and extending their cab so as to transport as many people as possible.

Broke down jeepney on the streets of Cebu City. 

Today, the jeepney vehicle is a smoke-belching, but often beautifully decorated, ubiquitous hallmark of the Philippine roadways. They are as common as coconut trees on the country's white sand beaches. Although modern jeepneys are made from converted second-hand cargo trucks, the cultural legacy of their post-war origin persists. While the jeepneys can be intimidatingly crowded (warning - maybe not a good idea if carrying all your luggage) they have a fixed cost usually around $0.20 for a ride whether a short distance or all the way across town. At that price, I highly encourage you to try this unique transport out! Our first ride in one through the streets of Cebu city was just plain fun.

A local tricycle

Next up, try riding a tricycle

Seems silly, right? But this very common transport - a motorcycle welded to some form of rebar personal carrier, which is balanced upon a third wheel - is serious business for covering local distances in the Philippines. Rides in some towns will cost about $0.25 each, whereas a ride connecting towns might run a few dollars. Although, they seem daunting at first, tricycles (as they are called) are extremely useful and quite easy with or without your luggage. Nonetheless, hang on tight, these  ‘tricycles’ are no toys - some of them can really rip!

Blissful 5 hour ferry ride from Ubay, Bohol to Cebu City, Cebu Photot by Flora Hugon 

Island hopping by ferry

The Philippines comprise over 7,000 islands so chances are you will likely be boarding a boat at some point. Privately-run ferries seem to connect just about every major island you might want to go to and are very affordable. I have some good news and some bad news. The bad news is that some ferries are a bit dodgy for sailing in the sometimes rough seas. Check the weather and have a look at the boat before jumping aboard. Use your common sense. The good news, is that you can buy beer on most ferry rides for less than a buck, and many boats have beds for seating. Go on a sunny day, kick back and enjoy the ride! An added bonus is that fuel consumption by these boats is far less than island hopping by airplane, which means that not only will you sail the high seas with cold beers in hand but you will be treading lightly on Mother Earth as you do so.   

We declined a taxi driver's offer to take us Cebu City to Moalboal for 1500 pesos, and instead caught the bus for 106 pesos each.

Public bus

Our experience with the public bus was terrific. There was always a bus coming along on major routes on Cebu and Bohol within fifteen minutes of waiting. They will pick you up anywhere and cost usually no more than $2-3 for a ride of a couple hours. Have no fear; the buses were extremely convenient and plain simple to ride.

A backpacker’s jeepney revelation

Many things in the Philippines are very cheap, but tours set up for foreigners we often found to be comparatively expensive. And while people were generally extremely friendly we were charged a bit more sometimes because of the fact that we were tourists. While I think it is important to support tourism operators with your tourist dollar -- tourism is almost 8% of GDP in the Philippines -- my travel philosophy dictates to avoid being unfairly overcharged and to spread my money amongst as many people as possible (preferably to people who really need it) rather than concentrate it into the hands' of a few tour operators. Watch out: some tourism operators have developed specialized skills to get tourists to pay. I've experienced this many times in different parts of the world and it happened again on our second day in Cebu City.

This is what happened: we hired a driver to take us on a tour. A misunderstanding became apparent halfway to our destination: his price for our tour had increased by a factor of five (ie. He was suddenly quoting us $250 USD). This may have been a misunderstanding but after we changed our itinerary (eg, cancelled the boat trip, lunch, and snorkelling) and instead simply arranged (very clearly, now) a price to use him as a taxi service to bring us to a restaurant he again later doubled his price. We argued but eventually submitted. In the end, we paid him $75 CAD for a $2 jeepney ride...

Fortunately, we knew better than to have a bad taste left in our mouth from that experience. People of the Philippines are some of the kindest people of any country I have visited! He was a one off, and it reminded me, once again, that travelling with the locals is not only fun but it results in a more balanced exposure to the actual people of the country.

Side bonus, not only did we have a memorable and photogenic ride in the back of the jeepney but we were riding a deep historical context of the Philippines. When in the Philippines (and other places) my seasoned traveler perspective encourages you step a little out of your comfort zone and travel with the locals. locals via unique modes of travel!

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